We're standing on the Southern shore of Lake Buena Vista, Florida. It's around 1983, and the atmosphere is serene. There are no nightclubs pumping techno music and no search lights illuminating the cosmos. Pleasure Island is still a place visited only by Pinocchio and Lampwick and the uncreatively named, "West Side," won't be built up for another thirteen years. All that exists beyond the western edge of the Disney Village are a few hundred pine trees and a beautiful sternwheeler riverboat named Empress Lilly.

The Empress Lilly at dusk

This is the Walt Disney World of my youth. My parents would bring me here once or twice a year, but our trip was never complete without dinner aboard the Lilly. Her gleaming white gingerbread scroll-work amazed me by day and her twinkling lights astounded me by night. Her top-heavy but elegant beauty created in me a love of riverboats which survives today. It wasn't until I was twelve that I could face the reality that she wasn't a real boat.

Many things have changed around Lake Buena Vista since my childhood. But I'd like to take you on a brief journey, which began in 1977.

Original conceptual art developed by WED Enterprises © Disney

The Empress Lilly's gangway was first lowered on May 1, 1977. Her christening was attended by Lillian Bounds Disney, Walt's widow, after whom the ship is named. Of course, riverboats are nothing new to the Disney universe. In 1955, Disneyland opened with its own gingerbread sternwheeler, the Mark Twain. The Empress Lilly was unique however, in that she didn't rely on tricks of perspective to simulate great mass. At 220 by 62 feet, she's more than double the size of her theme park siblings, the Mark Twain and the Liberty Belle. Yet, the Twain and the Belle have an advantage in that they actually move. The Lilly is as solid as granite because, despite her graceful appearance, this 'boat' has a submerged concrete foundation. Ingeniously constructed a few feet off shore, the illusion is astounding. In her earlier days, the Lilly's paddlewheel churned constantly, as if she were really plowing down the river.

Lillian Disney christens the Empress Lilly in 1977, alongside Donn Tatum, then chairman of Walt Disney Productions © Disney

Inside, the Empress Lilly was a luxurious wonder to behold, harkening back to the days of Victorian extravagance. She contained three distinct restaurants, four lounges and a Dixieland jazz bar. Why don't I give you the tour?

We start out on in the Main Deck (riverboat terminology for 'first floor'). Located forward, toward the bow, is the Baton Rouge Lounge. Here we can have a few drinks and listen to some fantastic music. This Dixieland jazz bar has held some raucous parties over the years. Stained glass highlights, brass flourishes and dark African Mahogany and Bentwood finishes make this one of the richest spots on the ship. The room's décor is primarily red, a visual play on the lounge's name.

Baton Rouge Lounge, conceptual art, developed by WED Enterprises © Disney

The entertainment here is second to none. Combining great music with just the right amount of comedy, the "Riverboat Rascals" can keep crowds happy for hours. Some of the players who've made up the Riverboat Rascals are "Fast Eddie" Erickson, Bill Dendle, Mike Gentry, Randy Morris, Ralf Reynolds, John Charles and Denny Zavett. The Baton Rouge is a major draw for folks looking for musical entertainment.

Denny Zavett (center) leads the Riverboat Rascals in another show stopper

We leave the Baton Rouge Lounge behind and head aft, through the lobby. We pass the Grand Staircase and head into the Steerman's Quarters restaurant. The room has yet another clever name as the term "Steerman" refers to both the beef served as well as to the steering gear which would normally occupy this section of a stern-wheeler. In the aft portion of the dining room, large windows give us an up-close view of the giant churning paddlewheel.

Steerman's Quarters is one of the few restaurants in Florida granted the right to serve certified angus beef, known for its tenderness and fine marbling. In addition to the numerous beef entrées, Steerman's Quarters has garnered a reputation for its' beef barley soup. It was also here that this young skipper first tried black bean soup, something I've never lost a taste for. An after dinner favorite is Crème Brulee. (It should be noted that Fulton's Crab House would later add Crème Brulee to its menu, seemingly to gratify fans of Steerman's Quarters. However, it was not the same recipe.)

Let's head upstairs now, and explore the Promenade Deck.

On the bow, directly above the Baton Rouge, is located the Fisherman's Deck restaurant. Obviously, Fisherman's Deck does for fish what Steerman's Room does for beef. The room is decorated in a nautical theme, with hanging brass lamps and storm lanterns on the tables. Fisherman's Deck specializes in fresh fish, caught daily. In addition to the fresh catch, you might also try the lobster bisque, or the shrimp imperial.

The author at his first character breakfast in the Fisherman's Deck

There's another restaurant on the Promenade Deck, but there's no easy way to get to it from here. You see, the Empress Room is the most elegant Disney establishment East of Club 33, and we 'commoners' simply aren't invited. Those who hold reservations (made weeks in advance) enter through a private entrance toward the steer of the boat. But for the sake of time, we'll just sneak through the Promenade Galley.

The Empress Room, in all its glory

The Empress Room spills over with Louis XV decadence. Orlando Sentinel columnist, Scott Joseph, once called called it, "a gilded lily of a gourmet dining room". And with its gold wallpaper and Maria Theresa chandeliers, that's exactly what it is. The service is comprehensive. Each new course is doled out at the table, and our silverware is constantly added to. The menu is covered in gold paper, which will hopefully soften the blow when you see the platinum prices. Needless to say, if you're the jeans and t-shirt type, you might want to stay downstairs.

Empress Room conceptual art, developed by WED Enterprises © Disney

World renowned Hungarian Chef, Garry Reich created an elegant menu to match the décor. Reich had previously worked for Howard Hughes and President Johnson, and was the recipient of Florida Trend's prestigious Golden Spoon Award. His original menu contained such dishes as Sliced Steak Tartar and Cold Avocado Soup.

At the aft end of the dining room, is the Empress Lounge, which overlooks Lake Buena Vista. It offers a sophisticated spot to sip coffee or drink brandy after dinner. Personally, I'd rather head downstairs and listen to the Riverboat Rascals, but that's just me.

There is one more spot to visit on the Empress Lilly. The Texas Deck, or third floor, is the setting for the Skipper's Table. Inside this private banquet hall, the Skipper's Table is literally that. A twenty-four foot long parquet table, imported from New Orleans Square at Disneyland, which seats up to twenty guests. A private galley and lounge are also present on this deck.

The Empress Lilly was the undisputed 'place to eat' back in the late '70's and early '80's at Walt Disney World. Yet, despite her popularity, this grand stern-wheeler wasn't immune change. Pleasure Island had made a world of difference around Lake Buena Vista, subtly altering the mood and desired demographics of the area. Disney saw financial advantages in subcontracting its eateries out to other companies. In early 1995, Disney announced that the Levy Organization had signed a twenty year contract to operate the Lilly. On April 22, 1995 the Empress Lilly's three famed restaurants served their last meals. When she reopened in early 1996 as Fulton's Crab House, the changes were astonishing.

The most instantly recognizable changes came to the exterior of the ship. During her retrofitting, the Lilly's smokestacks and paddlewheel had been removed. Apparently, severe rust and corrosion had made the stacks a hazard, and the paddlewheel was overcome by rot. The cost of replacing these items was considered too high, and not essential to the profitability of the restaurant. One piece of promotional literature proclaims, "Fulton's Crab House is a rustic recreation of a nineteenth century paddle wheeler." That's an incongruous statement, since the structure is clearly not a house, nor does it have a paddlewheel. Without these essential themed elements, the Lilly looks like what she really is: an oddly shaped building.

Before and after - a shot of the Lilly in 1977 (left) and in 1999 (Note the missing paddle-wheel and smokestacks)

The real insult came with the complete removal of the ship's original nameplates. The Empress Lilly, a ship named for Walt Disney's wife, is now simply Fulton's Crab House. There is no reference to the ship's true name, anywhere. Instead, several giant "Fulton's Crab House" neon signs were added. I suppose the signs are fitting, due to its proximity to Pleasure Island. Nevertheless, the signs take away from the charm and add to the kitsch.

A sign of the times... Fulton's new neon signage

The interior changes were even more significant. The restaurants, in their original forms, were gone. Three menus, it was reasoned, created an inefficient waste of kitchen space. In order to simplify operations, the same menu would be served in each dining room. Likewise, the décor would be completely redesigned. Each dining room received a new theme. The Fisherman's Deck has been converted into the "Constellation Room" in which a night sky has been painted on the ceiling and illuminated by navigational stars. The other rooms have been converted into the "Market Room" and the "Industry Room".

Perhaps most disappointing was the loss of the Baton Rouge Lounge. In its place, an appetizer lounge specializing in stone crabs and oysters. The stage was replaced by a new kitchen, and the size of the room has been greatly reduced. Entertainment comes from TVs broadcasting sporting events. Likewise, the decor is dramatically different. Nautical charts decorate the walls, and the deep reds for which the Baton Rouge was named, have been replaced by shades of blue, white and gray. The most popular spot on the ship has been reduced to just another Captain Jack's.

Looking toward the bow of Fulton's Crab House, She's still a beautiful boat, even without the smokestacks

To be completely fair, I can vouch for the quality of Fulton's food. I've had two good meals there. Likewise, the interior décor is well done, despite its having to do with the Ocean, rather than the Mississippi River. To the unbiased diner, Fulton's makes for a perfectly enjoyable evening. I've spoken to some who rave about Fulton's seafood and claim Fisherman's Deck to have been mediocre in comparison. Yet, for every one of those people, I've met two who'd gladly resurrect Steerman's Quarters. The Empress Room, it seems, has been the least missed of the original restaurants. It was far too stuffy for the average Disney World diner, though I'm sure a few Orlando gourmands regret its passing.

As for me, my most treasured memento is the Baton Rouge Lounge poster hanging in my kitchen. It reminds me of what the Empress Lilly once was. Who knows? In fourteen years, when Levy's lease comes to an end, we might see a triumphant return of the Empress Lilly. Probably not.

Poster for the Baton Rouge Music Company © Disney

If you'd like to write Jason you can reach him at jason@atomicmartiniproductions.com

Photos on this page, unless otherwise noted, by Jason Snyder

MousePlanet's WDW Restaurant Resource has some information on the restaurant that the Empress Lilly has become, Fulton's Crab House.

Also, Jason Snyder provided these links.  In his note to me, Jason said, "The links lead to the personal pages of the members of the Riverboat Rascals. I'm sure there are a few fans who'd like to check up on their favorite Baton Rouge (Lounge) musicians." So... here they are!  "Fast Eddie" Erickson & Bill Dendle  |  Mike Gentry  |  Randy Morris  |  Ralf Reynolds  |  John Charles  |  Denny Zavett

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